According to Ana Mikadze-Chikvaidze – founder of the Georgian Cheese Association who now runs her own cheese farm – Teleti, near Tbilisi – it’s impossible to name the exact number. “It could be anywhere from 80 up to 150 or more – she says – I have personally found 32 varieties, well lost and done with, had I not found them”. The fall of Soviet Union, followed by the proclamation of Georgian independence saw the return of national identity, resurrection of religious practice, but also the revival of Georgian traditional wine and culinary past. According to Ana, a lot of it has been lost to the industrialisation of farming in the Soviet Era. Today, Teleti produces 53 lines – from semi-soft varieties, like Sulguni to hard, such as Calt – mountain cheese from Tusheti – which is essentially a dry ricotta. Curiously, when aged properly, Calt acquires a sharp and distinctive, parmesan-like taste.